Jobs for the garden in May and June

Jobs for the garden in May and June

Posted by & filed under Advice, Garden Calendar.

Chelsea Flower Show 2012After the cold and wet winter…. finally, some delightfully warm days, I think equally welcome to both plants and gardeners!  Suddenly everything seems to be bursting into bud, plants are finally getting into full swing, and gardens and countryside alike are full of fresh new greenery.

It’s time for enjoying gardening!!  Make the most of sitting out in the garden too, even if only for a few moments to enjoy the late spring.  May also signals the beginning of the show season, kicking off with the Chelsea Flower Show  on 21st – 25th May – always a source of inspiration and encouragement, and sure to be extra special in this its centenary year.  Chelsea is followed by BBC Gardeners World Live in June, and Hampton Court in early July.  Take your pick and book your tickets now!

But to keep you busy until those show days come around, here are our top tips for May and June.  In particular, note the advice on not planting container plants and annuals out too early.  Remember we are still liable, in this delightful country of ours, to get late frosts in May!

May

  • FuchsiaTry and stay on top of the weeds – not always an easy task at this time of year.  If possible, remove them before they flower and set seed (weed seeds live for a long time in the soil)
  • Prepare annuals and vegetables for planting
  • This is a good month for planting late summer flowering perennials, and those ever-so-slightly tender shrubs, Lavenders, hardy Fuchsias, Hebe and Santolina for example.
  • Fertilise borders with a slow release fertiliser, giving them a head start before plants have grown too much.
  • Check rose and climber support structures and repair/replace if required.  Install staking systems for tall perennials before they get too big.
  • Watch out for pests, and remove, or spray (if you wish to, and with great care)
  • Plant up containers – but remember, if cold weather is forecast, it’s best to wait until late in the month.

June

  • RoseFinish planting up containers now the frosts are gone for good (well, until the autumn anyway…)
  • Mowing / weeding / watering / tying in – it’s that time of year!
  • Dying spring bulb foliage looks unsightly, but don’t remove the dying leaves until they are brown / falling off.  (Aside: dwarf bulbs die much more ‘tidily’ in this respect – possibly something to consider when buying/planting your next lot of bulbs!)
  • Dead head roses to keep them flowering; they can also be given a mini prune at the same time if you like to help them stay neat and tidy.
  • Remove rose suckers.  Many cultivated roses are grafted onto a hardier (often wild) rose root.  Suckers will grow from beneath the graft, normally with leaves that are smaller than the cultivated variety.  They will not bloom, but will sap energy from the plant (and can eventually completely overrun it).  They should be pulled/twisted/torn off right at the root (cutting with secateurs seems to encourage more suckers); you may need to remove some soil to get to them.
  • Late June & July is the time to prune shrubs that have flowered in May and June on current season’s wood.  To give you some examples – Ceanothus (but don’t prune into old wood), Philadelphus, Deutzia, Lilac, Clematis Montana.

Enjoy!   And as usual, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to leave a comment or call us on 0118 934 2958.

 

photo credits: Karen Roe, T.Kiya, wlcutler.

 

How to look after your lawn

Lawn Care Activities: What, Why, How, When for Beginners

Posted by & filed under Advice, Lawns.

In our post on how to look after your lawn, we mention some of the more common lawn care activities.  For some, all those names might be a bit meaningless; for others, they might be things you do each year, but don’t really understand why.

This post aims to outline the what, why, how and when for some of the more common lawn care activities.

Scarifying

What: Scarifying removes thatch (old grass cuttings & debris) and moss that builds up in the lawn, especially at soil level.

Why: Allows grass more space to grow, improves drainage and air circulation around grass, and hence reduces fungal diseases.

How: Scarifying can be done with a lawn rake, but it is hard work!  For those looking for a slightly easier option, manually operated and powered machines are commonly available.

When: Normally once a year in May is enough, although you may wish to lightly scarify in September too.  It is a vigorous process, and lawns can look a bit bare & thin afterwards (if you use a machine, you may end up with many bag loads of moss and thatch – you will be amazed!), so fertilising the lawn afterwards can help the lawn bulk up again more quickly.  Always ensure you scarify before top dressing, oversowing or fertilising!

Top Dressing

What: the process of adding material to the surface of the lawn – normally loam, sand, organic matter or a combination of these.

Why: Smooths the lawn surface, helps control thatch, improves the soil, and is particularly helpful when over sowing.  Also protects the grass over the winter.

How: You should apply the top dressing when the grass is relatively dry.  The dressing is normally worked in using the back of a rake or a stiff brush.  Don’t apply too much dressing – the grass should be visible once you’ve finished!  Water the lawn after applying, but do not mow immediately.  At ALDA Landscapes, we like to do a combi top dress / over seed (see below) by mixing lawn seed with a small amount of sharp sand and some compost, applying this mix to sparse areas of grass.

When: Usually late spring and/or early autumn – May and September.

Over Seeding (Over Sowing)

What: Over seeding (or over sowing) is where grass seeds are sown on top of an existing lawn.

Why: Over seeding is normally done for one of two main reasons – either to patch up/bolster any sparse areas of grass, or where seeds from a different variety of grass are scattered over the existing lawn, to change the appearance/qualities of the lawn.

How: There are quite a few things to mention here, so rather than going into huge detail, we’ve given you a couple of links to comprehensive guides on over seeding:

When: Usually late spring and/or early autumn – May and September.

Fertilising

What: Simply put, fertilising is feeding your lawn – giving it essential nutrients (usually nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in varying amounts).

Why: Fertilising your lawn will help strengthen roots, providing essential nutrients to help ensure  the grass can better combat heat/cold/drought/mowing/insects and all the other stresses and strains that come with being.… well, …. grass!

How: Fertilisers vary widely.  Importantly, there are special blends of fertilisers for the different seasons; at a very broad level, “lawn fertilisers” for spring/summer and “autumn fertilisers” for autumn.   It is important to apply the right fertiliser at the right time of year – don’t apply a spring/summer fertiliser, high in nitrogen, in autumn!  Doing so will encourage/feed lawn fungal diseases and discourage the grass from strengthening its roots over winter, ready for next year (instead, the lawn will grow strongly and become all lush and green – at the wrong time!)

It is important to apply fertiliser uniformly; this can be done by hand, with a rotary spreader, or with a drop spreader.  Always consult the packet for details on when and how to apply.

When: The answer to this one is…. it depends!  It depends on the weather, the garden location, the soil, and lots more.  If it is very wet for example, nutrients will rapidly be leached/washed out of the soil; if it is hot and wet, plants will be absorbing nutrients very quickly – and so in these cases, you may wish to fertilise more often.  In an ideal world, you should fertilise your lawn in spring, summer and autumn.

Rolling

What: As the name suggests – the process of rolling a heavy weight across the lawn!

Why: To smooth it, and, in the case of rolling after laying turf or seeding a new lawn (once established), to ensure contact between the seed/grass roots and the soil.

How: Remember that rolling can do more harm than good – the heavy weight can compact the soil (particularly if it is clay heavy soil), preventing the growth and spreading of roots.  It can also mean that water just runs over the surface of the lawn, washing away nutrients, rather than penetrating the soil.

That said, there are some circumstances when rolling is a good idea – after laying turf or seeding a new lawn for example (although not immediately after – wait until the lawn is established, and then see if rolling is really necessary.  Don’t drag a roller over newly laid turf!), and also if you’ve had problems with moles or other animals.  Always roll when the ground is damp (not dry, but not soaked either – just damp).  Use as light a roller as you can – this should limit damage to the grass roots.

When: As infrequently as is necessary!  Annually is probably too often.  Always roll in spring, when the grass roots are actively growing.

Hollow tine spiking / Aerating

What: Hollow tine spiking / aerating is the process of removing plugs of soil from the lawn

Why:  De-compacts the soil and improves drainage – can be particularly helpful on heavy clay soils

How:  The hollow tine aerator (which again can be a manual tool or a machine) is rolled over the grass to removes plugs of soil.  Normally sharp sand is then brushed into the holes, to hold them open.  Again, done manually, this task can be very hard physical work.

When: You shouldn’t need to hollow tine spike your lawn every year – once every couple of years should be plenty.  Always do this after the summer, around September time.

If you have any questions, please leave a comment of give us a call on 0118 934 2958.  And don’t forget to take a look at our blog post on how to look after your lawn.

 

Photo credits: victoriapeckham.

How to look after your lawn

Lawn Calendar: How to look after your lawn

Posted by & filed under Advice, Garden Calendar, Lawns.

grass-skyFollowing on from our recent post on how to look after your new lawn, we’ve put together some pointers for those of you who want to ensure your lawn – new or old – remains in tip-top condition throughout the year.

Before we begin… a warning: most people do not follow this down to the last letter.  If you lead a busy life, it can be a struggle to keep up with mowing the lawn, let alone anything else!  So the aim of this is to provide a useful rule of thumb – you won’t necessarily do everything that’s on the list, but it’s a guide to what you should or could be doing and when.

You might also be interested to read out ‘what, why, how, when’ blog post on some of the most common lawn care activities – fertilising, scarifying, hollow tine spiking, etc.  And if you have a particular problem identifying and/or knowing how to fix a particular lawn problem, we suggest you take a look at this handy section on the Rolawn website.

If you’d like to get regular, seasonal tips on what to do in the garden and when, just pop your email address in the box to the right (or below on mobiles).

December / January / February

  • Keep off the lawn if possible during wet or frosty weather, or when the lawn is covered with snow
  • Keep free from leaves and debris
  • Aerate in January if the weather is suitable
  • Cut on a high setting in February if possible (call it a ‘New Year’ hair-cut!)  – to keep things tidy

March

  • Lightly roll
  • Start mowing in earnest and gradually reduce the mowing height.  Use a grass box.
  • Remove debris
  • Apply spring/summer fertiliser (if in doubt, check packet instructions!)

April

  • Depending on the weather and the type of fertiliser you use, you may wish to re-apply fertiliser in April.
  • Apply weed and moss killer if needed
  • At this time of year, you may need to mow more frequently, as the grass starts growing more rapidly.

May

  • Scarify to remove thatch (dead grass lying at the base of the grass).
  • Over seed and top dress lawn if required, to bolster any sparse areas of grass
  • Continue mowing.
  • Roll and fertilise if required

June/July/August

  • Continue mowing.
  • If you must keep the grass green at all times, water during dry spells.  However, do note that lawns are very resilient and will recover no matter how brown they turn in a drought.  Since water is a scarce resource, watering lawns simply to keep them green is actually quite the opposite of green, particularly given that they will recover all on their own over time.
  • Continue routine clearing, raking to clear cut grass clippings, rolling
  • Apply final summer fertiliser in August

September

  • The lawn should begin to need less mowing; gradually raise the height of cut.
  • Hollow tine spike the lawn if the ground is compacted, and over seed and top dress as necessary.
  • Scarify lightly.
  • Apply autumn feed.

October

  • Regular mowing slowly turns into mowing when necessary.
  • Keep the lawn free from leaves and debris.

November

  • Perhaps the odd last cut or two.
  • Last opportunity to apply autumn fertiliser.

 

Phew; whoever would think that a patch of grass involved so much work!  Don’t forget – this is a rule of thumb, not ‘if you don’t do all of the above, your lawn will die’.  Remember to find time to enjoy your lawn as well as work on it!

If you require further information, the RHS website (www.rhs.org.uk) has plenty of advice, as do the websites of some of the main turf suppliers (e.g. Rolawn, Inturf, Spooners).

If you have any queries, don’t hesitate to call us on 0118 934 2958.

 

Photo credits: victoriapeckham, hummyhummy.

 

daffodils

Some seasonal advice after a long, cold and wet winter

Posted by & filed under Advice.

8417281_506ac83288The prolonged cold and wet winter, and very late arrival of spring, shows just how difficult it is to be precise when giving gardening tips and advice.

As I sit here writing the May / June calendar (watch this space, due to be published at the beginning of May), it occurs to me that it has been so cold, and plants are all so late shooting this year, that there is still time to do many of the tasks normally covered off in March and April – pruning, mulching, and fertilising for example.

Likewise, some jobs have just not been possible yet – weeding for example has proved particularly difficult thus far, as the weeds are only just beginning to appear (not such a bad problem to have methinks, although I’m sure they will be in full swing by the time May comes around!)

Lawns have had a tough winter and the rain will have washed a lot of nutrients out of the soil, so even if you don’t normally bother with a spring feed of your lawn and borders, it might be a good idea this year, just to give them an extra helping hand.

Despite all the rain, we have also had periods of cold drying winds, so a gentle fork over of the soil will help to remove the surface “pan”, and improve soil structure and drainage.

 

Photo credits: timo_w2s, Daveybot

 

pruning

Jobs for the garden in March and April

Posted by & filed under Advice, Garden Calendar.

Finally… the prospect of spring and some warmth, light and colour!  March and April are exciting months as the garden begins to spring into life.  Aside from keeping those relentless weeds under control, it’s a really busy time of year in terms of pruning, fertilising and general tidying up, in readiness for the summer.  So time to get your gloves on and really get stuck into this year’s gardening!

[Aside]
This time of year is one of our busiest for ‘blitz garden maintenance’, as clients wake up and find their garden has, almost overnight, spiralled out of control!  It can be a rather daunting couple of months for gardeners, as weeds appear from nowhere, and seem to grow faster than the garden plants!  This, combined with the need to get the garden tidied up, spruced up and pruned ready for the summer ahead.  Contact us in plenty of time if you would like a hand with the jobs we’ve listed below!

March

Weed free borders!Weeding

Do try and keep up with the weeding to prevent those nasty creatures outcompeting the garden plants for nutrients, space and light.  Weeds are best dug or hoed out to remove their roots… i.e. don’t just pull the top bit off!

Pruning

In our opinion, March is the main pruning month of the year.  Many shrubs will benefit from a light prune in spring, to keep the shrub within bounds, in shape and tidy, and to encourage new growth.  Remove any winter damaged stems and dead or overcrowded shoots.  Others can be hard pruned – see below.

So what exactly should you prune now? Continue reading >>

planting

How to look after your new plants

Posted by & filed under Advice, Plants.

For many people, the prospect of having lots of new plants to care for and nurture is a slightly scary one.  It’s normally the fact that these things are living organisms that tends to unnerve people.  In a similar way to having a new lawn laid, people sense there is far greater potential for damage than there would be, say, for their new patio!!

But really, all that is required is a big bundle of common sense, combined with a little bit of plant knowledge.  This article should help you get started with that.

Most plants are pretty robust.  BUT, most plants do need:

Watering

It is difficult to say precisely how much water to give a plant (they all vary!), but during the first growing season, you need to give plants enough water to get down to the plant’s root system.  This applies even to plants that will, when established, thrive in dry conditions.

When it is very hot, it is usually advisable to water early in the morning or later in the day, to avoid losing water to evaporating.

With big plants with large root balls, it take a lot of water to get the moisture down to the roots.  One option is to install a vertical plastic pipe into the soil alongside the plant (this is best done at planting time), so that water can be directed more effectively to the roots.

As a general rule, it is better to water thoroughly, and then let soil become drier before watering again, rather than watering little and often (where much of the water will be wasted).

You may wish to make your life easier by installing some form of irrigation system (even if it is a temporarily rigged up leaky pipe system!)

A couple of things to bear in mind: Continue reading >>

tidyPatio

How to look after your new patio

Posted by & filed under Advice, Patios.

All patios need a bit of tender loving care now and again, whatever the material used.  Whether your patio is constructed of stone paving, bricks, blocks, concrete or something completely different, it makes economic and social sense to do a bit of maintenance now and again!

Keeping your patio clean and tidy will not only prevent a build-up of moss and algae (which can make the patio very slippery), you’ll also find you’re much more inclined to use it on a regular basis when it looks good!

So after our recent post on designing a new patio and the addition of our patio gallery, here are a few tips for making sure your patio stays in tip top condition.

The Basics

The good news is that simply hosing the patio down with water, and sweeping regularly with a stiff brush, is often all that is required.

If you keep on top of this, and don’t let the condition of your patio deteriorate, you make life much simpler for yourself!

Jet/Pressure Washing

Jet or pressure washing the patio is a good way to spruce up the patio, normally in the spring after a cold, soggy winter.  Think of it as a spring clean for the patio, getting it ready for the long, sunny summer ahead.

HOWEVER… Continue reading >>

Patio Design Photos

Posted by & filed under Ideas, Inspiration & Trends, Patios.

Following on from our patio designer blog post, we’ve pulled together a selection of our patio design photos, to help our clients and readers decide which patio is right for them.

Click on any of the photos below to enlarge and view details.

Contact us for more advice on designing and implementing your patio – 0118 934 2958.

patio

Thinking about a new patio? Some tips from a patio designer…

Posted by & filed under Advice, Ideas, Inspiration & Trends, Patios.

Riseley courtyard 3aA patio is often a central or focal part of the garden.  A professionally designed patio can be a wonderful asset and provide a beautiful yet functional area from which to enjoy the surrounding area.

As landscape designers (and hence, often, patio designers!), we frequently advise clients on some of the options and decisions to be made when creating a new patio.  We have pulled together some of the key areas to consider here.

All of the patios shown here have been designed and installed by ALDA’s in-house team.  If you need help designing your patio, please call on 0118 934 2958.

Purpose & Size

Front garden patioWhat is the new patio for?  This may seem an obvious first consideration, but it’s one that often gets forgotten in the excitement of choosing materials and furniture!

Is it to be just a cosy area for two people, a family eating and gathering space, or an ‘outdoor room’ for dinner parties and entertaining?

The answer to this question should help dictate the size of the patio – it needs to be large enough!

As a rule of thumb, 3m x 3m is a sensible size for a typical patio with a table big enough for 4 or maybe even 6 people.  You can get away with smaller if there are less people, or if the furniture is dainty. Continue reading >>

Frosty!

Jobs for the garden in January and February

Posted by & filed under Advice, Garden Calendar.

This time of year, when the weather is snowy, frosty or as wet as water, a spot of armchair gardening is called for.  Start to think about how you want your garden to be this year and plan your borders, containers and veggie beds.  Have a good trawl through plant and seed catalogues before placing orders for your seeds and plugs.  Get in touch if you’re struggling to put together a coherent plan or need advice on what/where to order.

This is also a great time for actively not doing things in the garden if the conditions are poor!  Avoid walking on the lawn when it’s covered in snow or frost for example (but make sure you brush any snow from hedges, conifers and shrubs to prevent damage… and off your greenhouse too!)

But in case you thought you’d been let off the hook completely, on to the things that you can be doing, weather dependent of course:

  • If the weather’s clement, it’s a good time for getting ready for the new season.  Clean and tidy greenhouse and sheds.  Prepare veggie beds.
  • If the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged, now is the time to plant bare root roses, trees, hedges and shrubs.  Bare root plants are less expensive than their container grown equivalents.
  • This is also a good time for moving existing trees and shrubs – but again, only if the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged.
    Continue reading >>